Meadow Gardens

These colourful, exquisite and seemingly ‘wild’ garden expanses, usually associated with Europe or America are adored by many gardeners – for good reason! Unfortunately, Meadow Gardens are rarely used in Australia. This is a shame because these naturalistic masterpieces can be reinvented in so many ways. Hopefully we can inspire you to create a little bit of ‘meadow wilderness’ in your patch of the world incorporating some of the plants grown by Bluedale and available online http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au/ A visit to our Meadow Gardens Pinterest Board may help get you started https://uk.pinterest.com/bluedaleplants/meadow-gardens/ Keeping It Simple The simplest Meadow Garden is an area of ‘paddock-like’ tall grasses complemented by regularly mown pathways, edges or even shapes. Such meadow gardens work well largely due to the contrast between the untidiness of the meadow and order of the mown areas. Dan Pearson Studio, London achieves this effect nicely, as seen in the first photo. Visit Bluedale’s pinterest boards for more examples of landscapes by this designer https://uk.pinterest.com/bluedaleplants/dan-pearson-studio-london/. Things to note with these ‘Meadows’ is they are not as wild as they seem and some involve quite a bit of work. The mown areas are actually very well maintained turf that has distinct edges – presumably to prevent the turf grass invading the adjoining ‘wild’ areas. The ‘wild’ areas consist of a limited number of grass species and are often a different species to the turf grass. Nothing a competent gardener can’t handle of course …….. in some settings you may get by with occasionally running the ride on through a patch of neglected grass and weeds. This simplest form of Meadow Garden is well suited to Australia and Australian grass species. Species choice for the turf areas are obvious and will depend on your climate. Species from Bluedale’s selection that will work in the ‘meadow’ include Themeda australis (Kangaroo Grass), Imperata cylindrica (Bladey Grass), Poa ‘Kingsdale’, Poa ‘Eskdale’, Pennisetum ‘Cream Lea’ and Carex appressa. Buy online http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au/shop/Ornamental-Grasses/ The bolder designer might try Ficinea nodosa and Gahnia clarkei.  http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au/shop/Sedges-&-Water-Plants/ Other Australian native grasses well suited to meadows include Danthonia species (Wallaby Grasses), Cymbopogon refractus (Barbed-wire Grass) and Stipa species (Speargrasses). Australia’s Endangered Grassland Communities Your Meadow Garden does more than just look great. Grasslands have great habitat value, particularly when grown in urban areas where mown grass is the norm. According to Friends of Grasslands (http://www.fog.org.au/grasslands.htm ) when Captain Cook landed, a carpet of native grasses and colourful flowering herbs covered much of south-eastern Australia. After 200 years of European settlement, the vast majority of lowland grasslands in south-eastern Australia has been lost, either by complete removal or severe modification. Coastal dwellers would be familiar with the Themeda grassland on seacliffs and coastal headlands on our eastern coastline. Sadly, this is now an Endangered Ecological Community http://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/determinations/ThemedaGrasslandSeacliffsEndSpListing.htm Why not include some Themeda in your Meadow Garden? Finding Some Structure Structural plants such as hedges and specimen plants, bring so much to the Meadow Garden. Structural plants can offer dramatic contrasts in form, particularly if they include pruned hedges or even topiary spheres. The aesthetic value of this contrast should not be underestimated and is well demonstrated in the second photograph. Structural plants also remind the viewer that they are looking at a deliberately constructed landscape, rather than the consequences of a lazy gardener. Piet Oudolf is an influential Dutch garden designer, and some would argue the founder of the New Perennial movement. Piet’s work includes some outstanding meadow gardens. His landscapes can be seen on Bluedale’s pinterest board https://uk.pinterest.com/bluedaleplants/piet-oudolf/  Piet’s design tip concerning structure ………… ‘Before picking up a spade, I’ll pick up a pencil and tracing paper to sketch out the planting design as a series of three layers in overview.’ As Piet explains, the first layer consists of structural plants, followed by a matrix of grasses, and then a layer of accent and filler plants. ‘Lay all the sheets together and I’ll have the makings of a highly intermingled perennial planting design. I’ll aim to group plants by common habitat with a 70:30 ratio of structure to filler plants.’ (from Tony Spencer April 2014 http://www.thenewperennialist.com/bringing-hummelo-home/nggallery/thumbnails/page/2) Structural plants suited to Australia include the common hedge species Buxus and Murraya. Westringia ‘Aussie Box’, Syzygium varieties and the larger Lomandra varieties such as hysterix, ‘Katie Belles’ and even ‘Nyalla’ would serve as excellent structural plants in an Australian Meadow Garden. The Flowering Meadow To some, Meadow Gardens should be a riot of colour. The London 2012 Olympic Park by Nigel Dunnett and James Hitchmough represents such a Meadow Garden and is truly magnificent. Creating a flowering Meadow Gardens is a little more tricky than a meadow based on grass species. They are generally sown in cultivated soil and involve a complete replant each year. Interestingly, The City of Melbourne embraced the Flowering Meadow last year and grew annuals among the cityscape http://www.naturaldesign.com.au/2014/04/flowering-meadow/ . Tips for success include: • Sunny position; • Careful species selection. Some research will reveal designers like Ian Barker Gardens. Ian has a pallette about 25 plants that will survive in Melbourne. At the Melbourne International Flower and Garden Show he exhibited drifts of Echinops bannaticus ‘Blue Globe’, Verbena bonariensis, Echinacea purpurea and Miscanthus oligostachyus ‘Eileen Quinn’ amid other flowers and grasses; http://landscape.net.au/gallery/ • Annual cultivation. Cultivation may be limited to areas of flowering annuals, or may include the entire meadow; • Regular sowing. This may include Spring sowing, over sowing shortly after germination to fill gaps and even sowing in Autumn for early Spring germination; • Thick sowing. Evette Jungwirth from the Diggers Club advises “We have come up with a basic formula of about 800 seeds per gram so that gives you good coverage.” http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s3980126.htm. Mixing seed with sand as a bulking agent helps with even broadcasting; and • Maintain soil nutrients and low levels otherwise the grasses will dominate. This does sound odd but has been the key to success as Great Dixter. For more on this visit http://thegardenist.com.au/2012/08/meadows-101-1/ • Slashing/mowing once or twice a year. Some flowering meadows rely on bulbs to add to the colour palate. These work well emerging from grasses as seen at the Meadow Garden at Great Dixter. http://www.greatdixter.co.uk/ There are few native Australian plants that can play the ‘flowering’ role in a Meadow Garden. Bluedale’s Dianella ‘Little Jess’ is one of these few – its bright flowers and berries would look fabulous nestled among a mixed meadow planting. Combination Meadow Garden Depending on your climate, garden preference, budget, imagination and time you can mix and match the various elements described above to create an outstanding and original Meadow Garden. Bluedale strongly believe that Australian native grasses and hedge species are underutilised and well suited to the Meadow Garden, particularly in our harsh climate. In my view the most beautiful and bold expression of a Meadow Garden is Oehme van Sweden’s Garden of Contrasts at Cornerstone Sonoma, California. Although not necessarily described as a ‘Meadow Garden’ it has all the elements described above. Bold Structure plantings of Agave and Olives, straw coloured meadow grasses, colourful annuals…………… do yourself a favour and check it out. https://uk.pinterest.com/bluedaleplants/garden-of-contrasts-cornerstone-california-by-oehm/ or https://degraafassoc.wordpress.com/2009/08/29/garden-of-contrasts/

Landscape Stairs – Let you imagination run wild however get the dimensions right!

Stairs can be an integral feature in many landscapes. In the right hands, they become a palette where creativity runs wild and plants soften rigid construction materials. For some inspiration, check out landscape stair photos on Bluedale’s Pinterest Board http://uk.pinterest.com/bluedaleplants/stairs/.

Materials and gardening theme may vary, however the dimensions of stairs are universal. Poorly designed stairs are uncomfortable and dangerous to use – regardless of how amazing they appear.

Living Stairs

Designing your stairs

The 2012 Building Code of Australia details stair construction and requirements. http://www.colacotway.vic.gov.au/Files/Balcony_Stair_Balustrade_Extract.pdf.

This can be a daunting introduction to stair design, and a difficult place to start. A summary of the main dimensions specified in this code is presented below to help you get the idea. Some definitions are necessary (or dare I say it “off on the right foot!”) so we are all talking the same language. Refer to diagram.

Tread – the horizontal surface you place your foot on.
Going – horizontal measurement from the front to the back of a tread less any overhang from the next tread above.
Riser – the height between consecutive treads.
Flight – that part of a stair that has a continuous series of risers, not interrupted by a landing or floor
Landing – an area at the top or bottom of a flight, or between two flights.

Some of the basic “rules” from the Building Code of Australia that will make your stairs easy to use, include:

• Keep dimension of goings and risers constant – it is uncomfortable to change stride half way up a flight of stairs;
• Each flight must have not more than 18 nor less than 2 risers – to achieve this, flights can be separated by landings.
• Landings must not be less than 750mm long and have a gradient not steeper than 1:50 – this is to restrict the distance a person could fall down a stair.
• Riser (R) and Going (G) dimensions are specified in detail in the code. Such dimensions are assessed based on the formula 2R + G. For external steps, a great starting point for determining comfortable stair dimensions is 665mm. That is 2 x the Riser height plus the Going dimension equals 665mm. The table below is for non-spiral stairs and will help you with this.

If you wish to include plants and other landscape features in your stairs such as pavers, sleepers etc, it is best to consider how they will be incorporated before construction begins. For example if pockets of soil are required for planting, how large should these be and how will they drain water? If pavers are to be used on the Goings, then their dimensions need to be factored in to the stair design. If gravel is to be contained within the Goings, then the Riser must be of sufficient height to contain it. With some forethought, stairs can be both magical and safe to use.

Now for the fun stuff ……………… softening your landscape stairs with plants.

To include plants within landscape stairs, ie on the Goings between the Risers, the selection is limited to groundcover plants less than 190mm high or thereabouts. A great option for incorporating plants in landscape stairways is using well-spaced pavers or flagstones on Goings, leaving space in between for groundcover plants. Plants from Bluedale’s Selection that are well suited to landscape stairs include:
• Lawn Thyme, Dichondra ‘Silver Falls’, Mini Mondo and Mondo Grass for sunny stairs. Zoysia tenuifolia would be suitable for lightly trafficked, sunny stairs where it could be planted on the edges of Goings or between pavers/flagstones;
• Viola hederacea for part sun and shade; and
• Dichondra repens for shade.
All these plants are grown by Bluedale as Lawn Plugs http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au/shop/Lawn-and-Lawn-Alternatives/. Lawn Thyme, Dichondra and Viola look fabulous ‘dripping’ over stair Risers.

Margins either side of stairs, or in feature planting positions within stairs, are well suited to Australian native ornamental grasses http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au/shop/Ornamental-Grasses/ and landscape sedges http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au/shop/Sedges-&-Water-Plants/ .

Bluedale are specialists in the production of such plants with notable varieties listed below:
• Grasses – Themeda australis ‘Mingo’ is a 20-30cm tall, prostrate form of Kangaroo Grass for full sun to 50% shade. It is an excellent choice for use on stair margins. Other taller grasses that could be used to ‘weep’ over landscape stairs include Poa ‘Eskdale’ and ‘Kingsdale’; Pennisetum ‘Nafray’ and ‘Cream ‘Lea’; Kangaroo Grass; and Fountain Grass (Dwarf and Tall form).
• Dianellas – Bluedale’s varities ‘Little Jess’ and ‘Lucia’ will grow in full sun as well as shade, have strappy, non-spikey foliage and attractive flowers and fruit.
• Lomandras – Bluedale grows 8 cultivars/varieties of Lomandra. Of these ‘Shara’, ‘Tanika’, ‘Nyalla’, ‘Katie Belles’ and ‘Tropicbelle’ have non spikey flowers and strappy foliage well suited for use in pedestrian areas
• Sedges – Carex appressa is a great sedge for use along stairway margins, however its sharp leaf blade can preclude it from use in pedestrian areas.

The succulent groundcover Carpobrotus ‘Aussie Rambler’ grows well in full sun and is especially suited to coastal conditions. The succulent leaves of ‘Aussie Rambler’ do not tolerate damage so it is best grown on stair margins or ‘flowing’ over retaining walls that are so often associated with landscape stairs. http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au/shop/Ground-Cover-Plants/AUSSIE-RAMBLER/7/

Australian Ornamental Grasses for Children’s Play Spaces

Ornamental grasses are a great addition to this whimsical play space.

Children’s playgrounds have come a long way since the lonely metal slides, swings and mown grass that many of us grew up with. Many modern playgrounds include areas that encourage various types of play. This may include: active; free; quiet; social; imaginative; creative; exploratory and natural play spaces.

Increasingly, children’s playgrounds include natural play spaces, offering a blend of natural areas, environmental features and plants. With good design, a variety of play activity can be catered for in an attractive, fun and living landscape. Such a landscape may include boulders, water and sand, gravel pits, quiet social areas, interesting pathways, musical instruments, bridges as well as structured play equipment.

Choice of plants is critical for success when creating a natural play space and the following should be considered:

• plants should suit the soil and climate of the site;
• the playground is a hectic environment and only hardy plants will survive. It follows that plants that are able to regenerate after damage will be useful;
• plants that can be touched, jumped over or occasionally jumped on will not only survive but be ‘well loved’;
• plants with a variety of different textures, scents, colours, forms and sounds will add to the play experience;
• plants with loose parts such as small logs, leaves, seed pods, fruits, cones etc readily available will be incorporated into play;
• plants of all sizes – trees, shrubs, grasses and ground covers can play a number of roles in a play space;
• avoid plants that have poisonous parts or cause allergic reactions; and likewise
• avoid plants with sharp or prickly parts.

‘Lucia’ Dianella amoungst boulders.

Australian ornamental grasses are well suited to natural play spaces and fulfill many of the above requirements.

Dianella varieties are an excellent playground choice for their strappy, arching foliage, purple flowers and bright edible berries. Depending on the variety chosen, their height range of 400 – 700mm make them suitable for bordering play areas and pathways. Dianella’s spread via a rhizome and will therefore recover quickly following damage. Bluedale recommend Dianella ‘Little Jess’ http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au/shop/Ornamental-Grasses/Little-Jess/6/ or ‘Lucia’http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au/shop/Ornamental-Grasses/Lucia/3/ for playground borders, pathways and mass plantings.

Lomandra cultivars with male only flowers (ie non spikey) offer a taller alternative to Dianella and are well suited to natural playspaces. Lomandra ‘Tanika’, ‘Nyalla’, ‘Katie Belles’ and ‘Tropicbelle’ all have non spikey flowers and strappy foliage that can be woven into baskets, platted into rope or generally wrestled in, jumped on and attacked! For more information on Lomandra visit our wholesale website  http://www.bluedale.com.au/our-selection/strappy-leaf-plants/lomandra-varieties or buy online http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au

Ornamental grasses in the harsh play space environment.

Tussock grasses such as Poa and Pennisetum perform well the harsh conditions of any high use landscape. They have fine foliage and soft flowers. Poa poiformis ‘Kingsdale’ and Poa labillardieri ‘Eskdale’ are cool season grasses, looking at their best in Winter and well suited to cooler climates. Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Nafray’, ‘Purple Lea’ and ‘Cream Lea’ are all tall (900mm to 1.5m) warm season grasses. Wind blowing Poa and Pennisetum will add an element of movement to the natural playspace. For more on Bluedale’s ornamental grass selection visit http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au/shop/Ornamental-Grasses/

Australian native groundcovers such as Myoporum parvifolium ‘Yareena’ (10cm tall), Hardenbergia ‘Meema’ (30 – 45 cm tall), and Hibbertia scandens (40cm tall) are all well suited to play space areas. Although they will not tolerate pedestrian traffic, they will recover from damage, are not spikey and have attractive flowers. http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au/shop/Ground-Cover-Plants/

Carex fascicularis would work well in a water feature such as this.

In ponds and creekbeds with permanent water, the soft foliage of Carex fascicularis offers an alternative to other water plants, many of which have spiky or sharp foliage.

For further information on the plants recommended visit our website http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au/ and buy online.

Grasses and Succulents …….. who knew they could look so good?

The Garden of Contrasts at Cornerstone Sonoma, California by Oehme van Sweden

Ornamental grasses and succulents planted together. Sounds a little crazy I know, however it works exceptionally well.

It’s a planting scheme regularly adopted by famous designers from all over the globe such as Oehme van Sweden http://uk.pinterest.com/bluedaleplants/oehme-van-sweden/, Franchesca Watson http://uk.pinterest.com/bluedaleplants/franchesca-watson/, Andrea Cochrane http://uk.pinterest.com/bluedaleplants/andrea-cochran/ and Bernard Trainer http://uk.pinterest.com/bluedaleplants/designers-bernard-trainor/ just to name a few.

As garden companions, grasses and succulents have similar needs. Both have low water requirements and do well in full sun; both generally appreciate a well drained soil; and both usually herald from similar climates. Therefore they do well inhabiting the same garden space.

Their similarities end here. Dramatically different appearances are what make the pairing of succulents and grasses so visually appetising.

Succulents and Wind Grass by Franchesca Watson, Cape Town.

The chunky, sculptural forms of succulents contrast drastically with the slender, fine form of ornamental grasses. This is further exaggerated by the movement grasses can bring to the garden when blown by wind.

Planting layout can range from formal to wild meadow and everything in between. Rows of grasses with low succulents neatly growing in the foreground is the most obvious formal application. Wild meadows, filled with evenly spaced Agaves nested among a monoculture of grasses is quite unique and can be outstanding. Even in a large pot or raised bed this combination can work.

Carpobrotus (Pig Face) and Ornamental Grass by Franchesca Watson, Cape Town.

So who works well together?

• Try large Agaves with Poa labillardieri ‘Eskdale’  http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au/shop/Ornamental-Grasses/Eskdale/12/?src=relatedlhs or ‘Nafray’ Pennisetum alopecuroides http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au/shop/Ornamental-Grasses/Nafray/26/?src=relatedlhs  for a large scale eye catching garden. Some flowering perennials such as Echinacea (Coneflower), Salvia, Chamomile or Leucanthemum (Shasta Daisy) can add seasonal colour.

• Sedum spectable (Autumn Joy) works well with Dianella varieties, fine foliaged Lomandras such as ‘Shara’ and the above Poa and Pennisetum  http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au/shop/Ornamental-Grasses/

• An Australian version would pair native grasses such as ‘Tanika’ Lomandra http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au/shop/Ornamental-Grasses/Tanika/2/ or ‘Eskdale’ Poa with the flowering succulent groundcover ‘Aussie Rambler’ Carpobrotus (Pig Face) http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au/shop/Ground-Cover-Plants/AUSSIE-RAMBLER/7/ for astounding results.

Get the idea? The attached pictures will help you further. For more photographs and inspiration, check out Bluedale’s pinterest board ‘Grasses and Succulents in landscapes’. http://uk.pinterest.com/bluedaleplants/grasses-and-succulents-planted-together-in-the-lan/

Pennisetums ……. Friends and Foes

Pennisetums are warm season grasses that are native to many parts of the world, including Australia. Pennisetum range in form from grasses suitable for lawns ie kikuyu (Pennisetum clandestinum) to medium/large tussocks that have been used in gardening. The Australian species is Pennisetum alopecuroides, and it is a tussock form. Bluedale grow and supply 4 cultivars of P. alopecuroides as well as the common form. We also sell one species from Africa. Let’s call these species Friends.

Now for the Foe. Pennisetum setaceum is from Africa and south western Asia. It is highly invasive and will germinate readily in gardens, bushland, even cracks in the footpath. Not the sort of plant you want to have around! P. setaceum has been declared a Class 5 weed in NSW (restricted weed which must not be sold, bought or knowingly distributed throughout the entire state) and Class 3 weed in Qld (environmental weed). It is yet to be classified in other states.

Native Pennisetums used in landscaping and supplied by Bluedale

The cultivars and common form of P. alopecuroides supplied by Bluedale are regularly used in the landscape industry and include:
• ‘Nafray’ Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘PA300’ http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au/shop/Ornamental-Grasses/Nafray/26/
• ‘Purple Lea’ Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘PAV400’ (see first picture) http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au/shop/Ornamental-Grasses/Purple-Lea/69/
• ‘Pennstripe’ Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘PAV300’
• ‘Cream Lea’ Pennisetum alopecuroides http://www.bluedaleplantsonline.com.au/shop/Ornamental-Grasses/Cream-Lea/64/
• Pennisetum alopecuroides(common form)

‘Purple Lea’ in flower.

P. alopecuroides is known as Swamp Foxtail Grass. Its distribution ranges from tropical Queensland to the south of New South Wales mainly along the coast. P. alopecuroides naturally occurs in moist conditions and boggy areas. Importantly, Harden (1993) classifies P. alopecuroides as a native Australian species, however to confuse the issue, many sources indicate it may not be indigenous to Australia, having been transported here prior to European settlement.

Pennisetum varieties flower in late summer and autumn. Unfortunately, it follows that in areas with warm moist winters, such as tropical Qld and northern NSW, some cultivars, namely ‘Nafray’ and ‘Purple Lea’, can self-seed. Bluedale believe in responsible gardening and would not recommend growing either of these cultivars in such areas. To complicate things further, modern gardeners and landscapers will need to consider global warming and the resulting warmer winters some of us are already experiencing when using any plant that produces seed in abundance. The same can be said of gardens with warm winter micro-climates, coastal gardens and irrigated gardens.

When grown in other areas, an uncharacteristically warm and moist winter can see some self-seeding. In this case, we recommend thick, quality mulch and vigilance. Beware of coarse mulch such as pine bark as this leaves gaps and exposed soil suitable for seed germination. Seed heads can be removed before seed is set and unwanted seedlings spray very effectively with glyphosate.

In Bluedale’s experience, ‘Pennstripe’ is yet to produce viable seed. It is also the first variegated Australian native grass available. ‘Cream Lea’ has also proven to be non-invasive. There are no reports from Bluedale customers of ‘Cream Lea’ self-seeding.

Pennisetum ‘Rubrum’

Pennisetum ‘Rubrum’ is a commonly grown ornamental cultivar grown from the species Pennisetum advena native to Africa, the Middle East and East Asia. Both tall and dwarf forms are available. It is completely sterile and does not have a rhizome. ‘Rubrum’ will therefore not become a weed.

Pennisetum setaceum in flower.

Our Foe Pennisetum setaceum

The common name for P. setaceum is Fountain Grass (see second picture). In an ideal world P. setaceum would not be available for sale in Australia. Over the past few years Bluedale has however, seen projects where this weed has been supplied to unsuspecting landscapers as the native form. The take home message here is be sure you/your contractors source plants from a reliable supplier. If in doubt, ask. Beware of plants produced by ‘backyard growers’ and sold at places like local markets.

P. setaceum flowers most of the year and produces an abundance of viable seed, which is mainly dispersed by wind but can also be spread by vehicles, humans, livestock, water and possibly birds. Where the native form has 10 – 30% seed viability, P. setaceum has close on 100%. Notably seed has been reported to remain viable for at least 7 years. It was likely brought into Australia as an ornamental grass and has been living it up here ever since.

According to the NSW Department of Primary Industries, P. setaceum is difficult to eliminate. Control may need to be repeated several times a year. The long-lived seeds mean continued monitoring after treatment is essential. Control should initially be directed to outlying populations followed by treatment of the core area. Small infestations of fountain grass can be removed by uprooting and removing/destroying seed heads. Extensive infestations of fountain grass are probably best controlled with herbicides, combined with mechanical techniques.

Pennisetum setaceum diagram from Harden, 1993.

The invasive behaviour of P. setaceum is likely to be the first step in its identification. Other features include:
• upright tufted grass with very narrow leaves and flowering stems growing up to 1 m or more tall
• long spike-like seed -heads (6-30 cm long) are reddish, pinkish or purplish in colour
• flowers are always present
• P. setaceum has a hairy peduncle (flower stalk) compared with the hairless peduncle of P. alopecuroides (see drawings)
• seed-heads contain large numbers of densely packed stalk less flower spikelet clusters
• each flower spikelet cluster is surrounded by numerous feathery bristles (12-26 mm long) and one significantly larger bristle (16-40 mm long)
• its mature seed-heads turn straw-coloured or whitish and the seeds are shed with the feathery bristles still surrounding them.
If in doubt about identification, contact your local council or post a specimen to your nearest botanic gardens (most botanic gardens have a plant identification service that charges a small fee).

Pennisetum alopecuroides seed diagram from Harden, 1993

REFERENCES
Harden, G. J. (Ed) 1993 ‘Flora of New South Wales Volume 4’ Copywrite Royal Botanic Gardens and Domain Trust. Published by New South Wales University Press, Kensington, NSW Australia.
NSW Primary Industries Biosucurity (part of Department of Primary Industries) Weed Alert Brochure http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/agriculture/pests-weeds/weeds/profiles/fountain-grass

Pennisetum advena ‘Rubrum’

Pennisetum advena ‘Rubrum’ or Purple Fountain Grass is a tall (1.5m tall x 1-1.5m wide), ornamental grass with origins in Africa. Its foliage, which remains a striking burgundy red to bronze colour for most of the year in mild climates, seems relevant for discussion in Autumn.

Rubrum also features large, attractive cream feathery flowers held above the foliage during Spring, Summer and Autumn. Notably, flowers are completely sterile so it will not become a weed like its invasive cousin Pennisetum setaceum.

Both the spectacular foliage and flowers of Rubrum can be used to great effect in landscapes, particularly when mass planted. A dwarf form is also available.

It has a place in the formal garden in untamed sweeping masses among well-ordered and clipped plantings. It fits in well with meadow gardens, providing height and colour variety in a sea of other grasses and perennials. Rustic landscapers will enjoy Rubrum’s rugged appearance. It even does well as an informal hedge –picture it doubled with clipped buxus or syzygium. Using some imagination, Rubrum can offer something for most gardens.

Full sun will encourage Rubrum’s rich foliage colour. It will also tolerate up to 50% shade. It has good drought tolerance, becomes quickly established and thrives under a wide variety of conditions from protected coastal to dry inland climates as well as damp, poorly drained soils. It will even survive light frosts with some leaf burning and die back. The dwarf form is not as cold tolerant as it’s full sized parent.

Caring for Rubrum is simple:
• annually trim Rubrum by 2/3 in early Spring to remove last season’s spent foliage
• fertilize with slow release fertilizer after trimming
• keep mulched and
• water over hot Summers to keep it looking it’s best

Bluedale sell Rubrum in 140mm pots and recommend 2-3 plants per square metre for mass planting and 1 plant per square metre for specimen planting. From Spring 2014, Rubrum will be available in Viro-tube 10 pacs.

 

Winter is Coming!

Some simple gardening activities can help your much loved garden plants not only survive the Winter months, but be well prepared for Spring. These tips apply to the south-eastern portion of Australia in particular.

Before we get to the practical stuff, here are some facts to assist your Winter gardening decision making:

• Water has insulating properties. This is particularly relevant for soil moisture and water in plant cells
• Mulch is also insulating
• Cold air is usually also very dry
• Rapid freezing and thawing of plant tissue causes damage

WATERING
Watering is possibly the most effective way of reducing Winter damage to your garden plants.

Watering your garden during Winter may seem unnecessary. In some parts of Australia and during some seasons this is the case.

However when prolonged dry periods occur in Winter, well timed watering can save your garden from stress, damage and even plant loss.

Due to the insulating properties of water, well watered soil absorbs and retains heat from solar radiation during the day which it re-radiates during the night.

Put simply, moist soil will tend to stay warmer for longer than dry soil. In addition to keeping root zones warmer, this elevates air temperatures around the plants above. Temperature increases are only slight, however can be sufficient to prevent plant damage. The take home message is don’t let your garden soil dry out during cold periods.

Watering is best done early in the day. This maximises the period of solar radiation absorption by the moist soil, ensures plant foliage is dry before nightfall and gives the plant time to absorb the water into tissues. Rapid cooling/freezing of water on plant tissue can cause damage and is avoided by applying water to the root zone only (ie not wetting foliage). Also plant cells plump with water will incur less damage in the cold than cells that have dried out.

Pay particular attention to soil moisture content on cold days. Cold air is usually dry – you know how dry your face and hands can get during Winter. Combined with Winter winds, cold air can remove water from plants faster than roots can absorb it.

When watering in Winter, aim to moisten soil throughout the entire root zone. Do not overwater such that the garden soil becomes soggy. Not only will this reduce the oxygen available to the plant roots, it may take a long time for the soil to dry out again, increasing the risk of soil fungus. Prolonged saturated soil conditions damage the root systems of most plants. Watering the first few centimetres of soil will likewise not achieve the desired effect.

MULCHING
With soil moisture and temperature an issue in winter, it follows that mulching has a role in preparing your garden for the colder months. The insulating properties of the mulch itself will guard against soil temperature extremes. A well mulched garden will retain soil moisture, enhancing the effects discussed above. Both organic and gravel mulches are useful for achieving these goals.

FERTILIZING
Young plant tissue is more susceptible to damage by the cold. To avoid new growth coming into the cold months, don’t fertilize your garden with nitrogen late in the growing season.

PRUNING
In the event of plant tissue damage, resist the temptation to remove the damaged branches by pruning until the risk of further damage has passed. It may look unsightly; however the damaged tissue is protecting the remainder of the plant from damage by the cold. Also early pruning may stimulate new shoots that will likely suffer injury before Spring arrives.

FROST RECOVERY
Frost damage is greatest when rapid freezing and thawing of plant tissue occurs. In climates where frost is uncommon, the keen gardener can cover plants with old sheets, blankets and even plastic during forecast frosty nights. Be aware that plant tissue damage can occur where the frozen cover contacts the plant. In the morning rapid thawing can be caused by sunlight hitting a frosted plant surface. To reduce the effects of this, gently water the frosted foliage before the sun touches it.
In frosty areas, plant nurseries avoid damage to their stock by watering all night via misting systems. This is a specialist technique and not practical for the home gardener.

BLUEDALE’S COLD WINTER SELECTION
Our Cool Season Grasses such as Poa labillardieri ‘Eskdale’ and Poa poiformis ‘Kingsdale’ will handle cold to -10 degrees and heavy frost. Both offer a fabulous winter display. Our 3 Dianella cultivars all perform well in cool climates, with Dianella ‘Lucia’ the most cold hardy, growing well to -7 degrees and tolerating light frost. Most of Bluedale’s Lomandras do well in cold climates with the following cultivars staying evergreen to -10 degrees and coping with medium level frost: ‘Wingarra’, ‘Tanika’, ‘Nyalla’, and ‘Katrinus Deluxe’. Some of our other Lomandras are also cold tolerant: ‘Shara’ -5 degrees and ‘Katrinus’ -7 degrees.

Twizzler® Lepironia articulata ‘LA20’

It’s all about the unique sculptural foliage of this landscape sedge. Twizzler’s cylindrical stems are twisted, glaucous and like nothing you have encountered before. Twizzler caused much excitement here at Bluedale when it emerged among the tens of thousands of sedges we grow here. At the time we knew this Lepironia articulata cultivar was something special.

After extensive trialling at Bluedale’s nursery and Ozbreed’s demonstration gardens, Twizzler® Lepironia articluata ‘LA20’ is now a registered plant.

Twizzler is well suited to areas where its architectural element can be best appreciated. This includes:
• courtyard garden water pots
• landscape ponds
• drainage lines
• reed beds for waste water systems
• bog gardens
• rain gardens
• constructed wetlands.

Accentuate the properties of Twizzler by using it with bold colours, for example in pots with a brightly painted wall behind. Blue or grey themed gardens would benefit from its inclusion. Twizzler is a stand out in the formal garden.

Twizzler is smaller than its Lepironia articulata parent, growing up to 1.3 metres tall x 700mm wide. It grows well in freshwater from 100mm-500mm deep and in full sun to 70% shade. Twizzler has proven itself in protected coastal aspects as well as inland climates where it will remain evergreen to -5 degrees C.

A wide range of soil types will be tolerated by Twizzler, including sandy & clay loam, water logged soil and even heavy clays.
The foliage remains very ‘clean’ so trimming is minimal. Every 3-5 years in Spring, trim back foliage to 100mm above the ground. Flowers are not the reason to grow this plant, however 30-40mm conical seed heads which are present much of the year are quite attractive.

Bluedale sell Twizzler in Viro-tubes and 140mm Pots. We recommend planting rates of 5-7 individuals per square metre for mass planting and 1 to 3 plants per square metre for specimen planting.

Go on dare to be different……find a home for some Twizzler in your landscape.

 

Viro-tubes or Pots, now that’s a question!

The nursery industry sells plants in a huge variety of pot sizes. This is further confused by our habit of referring to pots using mm, inches or even Litres! To make matters even more interesting, a single plant may spend time in up to 4 pot sizes before it reaches you.
Let’s simplify this for you………………..at Bluedale we sell our grasses and strappy leafed foliage plants in 2 sizes only – Viro-tubes and 140mm pots. In the past Bluedale has sold plants in Viro-cells (also called plugtrays), however we found results to be frequently disappointing and we no longer recommend them for direct planting in landscapes.

So Viro-tubes or pots? Choice largely depends on factors such as character of the species itself, project goals, available aftercare and budget. Choosing correctly will improve the outcome of your planting project. Bluedale are obviously very happy to assist you when making choices on pot size, however a crash course in plant pot sizes will not do the discerning gardener, landscape designer, revegetation officer or contractor any harm!

Viro-tubes
These are 50x50x90mm tubes in trays of 50 and are without doubt, the best way to grow Grasses, Strappy Leafed Plants, Sedges and Wetlands Plants. The unique design of the Viro-tube works to prevent plants from becoming root bound by training downward root growth to an open base where roots are air pruned. Viro-tube grown plants establish quickly as their roots don’t have to fight their way out of their own root ball. In fact the roots are primed ready for fast establishment.

Viro-tubes are often preferred for revegetation projects. High planting densities can quickly result in thick swathes of grasses outcompeting weed species while perhaps fulfilling an ecological role.

Viro-tube planting rates vary with species, but generally for most mass planting applications rates of 5 to 7 plants per square metre are appropriate. At $1.00 – $1.20* per tube (PBR varieties $1:85 – $2.10*) this equates to $5.00 – $8.40* per square metre (PBR varieties $9.25 – $14.70*). This is substantially less expensive than purchasing 140mm pots. In addition, due to their relatively small size, Viro-tubes can be planted quickly. It is not uncommon for specialist contractors to plant 2 to 3 thousand Viro-tubes per day per person!

There are a few more things to consider before you select Viro-tubes. Appropriate before and after-care is vital for success. Soil preparation prior to planting is necessary to ensure the Viro-tube root ball does not find itself surrounded by air pockets or impenetrable clay – both of these scenarios will dramatically reduce success. Also regular and frequent watering is paramount. Viro-tubes only penetrate 90mm into the soil and as such get hot and dry very quickly-choose your planting season carefully to avoid a high watering burden. On a final note – bushland wildlife enjoy grazing on fresh plants brought to them direct from the nursery. Ducks, kangaroos, possums etc can easily pull Viro-tubes out of the ground. Perhaps a ‘trial’ small scale planting will determine how problematic predators on your site are likely to be.

140mm Pots
Also referred to as 6” or 2.5L pots, 140mm pots are ideal for landscaping projects, commercial applications and roadsides. They are 140mm deep with a 125mm diameter. Plants grown in these pots have a larger root ball than their Viro-tube cousins and in many ways this makes them more forgiving.

As for Viro-tubes, pot planting rates vary with species and application. For mass planting, rates of 3 to 5 plants per square metre are common. At $3.95 – $5.95* per pot this equates to $11.85 – $29.75* per square metre, over double the cost of Viro-tubes. They are also slower to plant, requiring a hole 190mm in depth (1/3 larger than actual pot size).

140mm pots are ideal for areas where an instant plant presence is required. Examples include domestic and commercial landscapes, public parks and gardens and roadsides. Plants are more established in 140mm pots and grasses grown in this size pot can be quite tall.

Watering requirements are less for 140mm pots and they can be easier to mulch around. Provided appropriate care is given, high survival rates can be expected.

Viro-cells
Although Bluedale does not recommend plants in Viro-cells for direct landscape planting, we use them in our production process. Other nurseries continue to supply them to landscape and revegetation contractors, as we have done in the past. We feel it is important that our clients be aware of the pitfalls associated with planting cells directly into the landscape.

Cells are 25×25 x45mm compartments in rigid trays of 162. Their root ball is 12% of the volume of Viro-tubes – now that’s small. Our experience with cells is that they dry out quickly, often on the way to site. Associated losses can be significant. Further, predation by birds, possums, rats or whoever wants a cheap feed can be significant as the cell is easily pulled out of the ground. Success requires exceptional soil preparation and a rigorous watering regime which is time consuming and more often than not, impractical.

*Prices are a guide only and vary with species, numbers purchased etc. Bulk discounts have not been applied to these prices.

Native Grasses Can Be Formal Too!

Minimalism. It’s here to stay. Design of our homes and interiors are more simplistic than they have ever been. It follows that formal garden design is enjoying unprecedented popularity, invigorated with outdoor living areas and water sculpture. Yes there is still a place in all our hearts for the flamboyant cottage garden that our grandparents had. Part of my garden is still like this. However the success of the formal eye catching garden design coupled with modern architecture speaks for itself.

Native Grasses, Strappy Leaf Plants (SLP), and Landscape Sedges certainly have a place in the palette of the formal garden. Too often it is assumed that these plants belong in rustic bush gardens only. Many of these plants have the regular form so vital in a formal planting. Used well they can provide another dimension of foliage contrast.

Ways of including Grasses, SLP and Landscape Sedges in formal gardens include:

• Mass Planting. Specimen trees or large shrubs can be under planted with Grasses or SLP. Alternatively the plants can speak for themselves on mass without accompanyment.

• Border planting. Pathways, garden edges and retaining walls can all be punctuated with border plantings.

• Repetition throughout the garden. Keep it simple by reusing the same plant at intervals throughout the garden.

• Specimen planting. Grasses and SLP are in general very symmetrical. This characteristic can be employed to great effect by specimen planting.

• Water. Grasses and SLP are fabulous companions to water features. The formal theme can be included in the water itself by planting macrophytes.

To help you get started we have compiled a few planting schemes including the Grasses, SLPs and Landscape Sedges Bluedale produce. These can be adapted to a variety of situations depending on garden size and environmental conditions. Obviously other plants can be integrated into these schemes depending upon individual taste.

COASTAL GARDENS
Under plant existing trees or new tree plantings with ‘Little Jess’ Dianella to create a visual cool shade escape. Celebrate sunny areas by planting with swathes of Carpobrotus glaucescens and/or Zoysia macrantha. Isolate ‘Nyalla’ Lomandra and/or clipped Westringia fruiticosa as specimen plants. Repeat groupings of ‘Eskadale’ Poa, ‘Katrinus’ Lomandra and Isolephis nodosa throughout. Depending on application include borders of ‘Aranda’ Dianella.

TEMPERATE INLAND
Many Australians live in a temperate, frost free environment. This lends itself to the use of shrubs and trees with ‘mesic’ foliage. In the formal landscape this includes the clipped Buxus, Syzygium and Camelia of which we are all familiar – I’m sure you have your favourites. Grasses and SLP can be successfully paired with these traditional garden mainstays. One or 2 large swathes of ‘Rubrum’ Pennisetum or ‘Kingsdale’ Poa will provide colour and foliage contrast. Hedges of ‘Nyalla’ Lomandra or even ‘Aranda’ Dianella can be planted right alongside clipped Buxus (or similar) hedges. Formally enclose garden beds with borders of ‘Katrinus’ Lomandra. For small garden spaces ‘Erindale’ Lomandra provides an alternative to the much utilised Mondo Grass. Isolate single plants of ‘Tropicbelle’ Lomandra in the garden or in pots to accentuate form. Bluedale also cultivates Westringia fruiticosa – an excellent hedging shrub.

FROSTED AREAS
Our Cool Season Grasses (CSGs) such as  ‘Eskdale’ Poa (suits heavy frost to -10 degrees C), offer a fabulous winter display. Capitalise on the winter beauty of these plants by pairing them with deciduous trees and shrubs to produce a remarkable formal landscape. Border plantings of ‘Aranda’ Dianella (to -5 degrees C) will retain a formal structure when much of the garden is asleep. Mass plant ‘Erindale’ Lomandra for a formal groundcover (will handle cold to -5 degrees C). The blue grey fine arching foliage of ‘Kingsdale’ Poa (heavy frost to -10 degrees C) can be used to contrast with other foliage as a mass display.

FEELING BLUE
If you would like to add some blue foliage contrast to your formal garden – Bluedale offers 4 Grass and SLP alternatives. Our ‘Kingsdale’ Poa, ‘Eskdale’ Poa and ‘Wingarra’ Lomandra will all provide excellent foliage colour contrast. The Poa’s produce a fabulous display as a mass planting. ‘Shara’ Lomandra and ‘Wingarra’ Lomandra both make effective borders and garden edges.

WATER CAN BE USED ANYWHERE
Water can be used in formal landscapes as a focal point. Water pots and sculptures are the simplest way to do this. Whether in small containers or larger ponds Lepironia articulata or ‘Twizzler’ Lepironia on their own or combined with Baumea rubiginosa will retain formal appeal.